Summer in Provence has its flip side: between mid-July and the end of August, the thermometer happily flirts with 35°C and the golden stone of Gordes radiates heat well into the evening. It's precisely at those moments that one question comes up, without fail, from our guests: where can you cool off without driving all the way to the sea? The good news is that the Luberon and its surroundings are full of places to swim, from discreet little rivers to vast turquoise lakes. Here are our favourite spots, ranked from the closest to the most spectacular, with our hosts' tips for choosing one to suit your day and your mood.
The Bonde lake, the family swimming spot of the southern Luberon
At the foot of the southern slope of the Grand Luberon, near Cabrières-d'Aigues, the Bonde lake is one of the few managed lakes where swimming is supervised in season. Allow around 50 minutes' drive from Gordes, passing through the hilltop villages on the southern side of the range. It's an unpretentious spot but ideal for families: a stretch of freshwater fringed with pines, a gently sloping beach, plenty of shade, and a real sense of being far from the crowds of the more popular sites.
People come here above all for the peace and quiet. The water warms up quickly, which delights children, and the surroundings are perfect for a picnic under the trees. It's also a great excuse to explore the southern part of the range, wilder and less visited than the northern slope where we are based. One tip: swimming here is generally supervised only in high summer, and only in the marked-off zones; ask locally and follow the signs.
The Sorgue, crystal-clear water at 12°C all year round
If it's pure freshness you're after, the Sorgue is where to head. Rising from the spring at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, about twenty minutes from the villa, this river keeps a constant temperature of around 12°C, summer and winter alike. Which is to say you don't really swim in it in the usual sense: you dip your feet, splash about, and settle on a shady bank for a picnic beside water of striking transparency.
To make the most of this river, the best way is to drift down it with the current. That's the whole subject of our article on the Luberon by bike: the Calavon cycle route, which in places runs alongside waterways perfect for a refreshing stop. The upper stretch of the Sorgue can also be paddled by canoe, an activity we love to recommend. A word of caution all the same: the water here is genuinely cold, and prolonged swimming isn't advised for those in fragile health. This is the chill of a mountain torrent, not the mild water of a lake.
The Calavon river, wild swimming for those in the know
The Calavon (also called the Coulon) flows through the heart of the Luberon, below Gordes. When the water is high, natural rock pools form along its course, creating little wild swimming spots much prized by locals. It's an insider's experience, with no facilities or supervision, calling for caution and common sense.
A few rules apply here. The Calavon's flow is highly variable depending on the season: abundant in spring, it can drop sharply in high summer, to the point where some pools become stagnant and best avoided. Never swim after a storm, which is common in late summer: floods are sudden and dangerous. And always favour clear, flowing water. For those who like to walk before cooling off, these spots are often earned at the end of a trail, in the spirit of the most beautiful hikes in the Luberon.
Wild swimming: our safety rules
- Never swim after a storm. The Calavon's floods rise in a matter of minutes; if in any doubt, give it a miss.
- Check the water quality. Stagnant, warm water in high summer is not a good idea; favour pools fed by a current.
- Closed-toe shoes. The banks are slippery and the riverbed stony; water sandals make all the difference.
- Leave no litter. These fragile sites only survive if we leave them untouched. We take home everything we bring.
The Lake of Sainte-Croix, the great turquoise escape
For spectacular swimming, the kind you dream of, you need to head further east: the Lake of Sainte-Croix, at the gateway to the Verdon Gorges. About 1 hr 15 min by car from Gordes, this vast lake with its impossibly turquoise water is one of the most beautiful places to swim in Provence. You settle on the beaches of Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon or Les Salles-sur-Verdon, hire a pedalo or a kayak, and make your way up the canyon to the mouth of the gorges, where the cliffs close in above the emerald water.
It's a full day out in its own right, one that combines beautifully with a visit to the Verdon Gorges. The water is gentler here than in the rivers, the light is sublime in late afternoon, and the rocky setting unforgettable. In high summer, it's best to set off early in the morning to enjoy the calm and find somewhere to park, as the site gets very busy in July and August. Bring a picnic and plenty of sunscreen: shade is scarce on the beaches.
When and how to choose your swimming spot
Each place to swim has its season and its crowd, and that's the whole art of putting together a good Provençal day.
- For families with young children, opt for a supervised lake such as the Bonde, with its gently sloping beach and mild water.
- For intense freshness in great heat, nothing beats a stop on the banks of the Sorgue, just minutes from the villa.
- For a great, memorable day out, set course for the Lake of Sainte-Croix and the Verdon, leaving at dawn.
- For wild, secluded swimming, the rock pools of the Calavon, provided you respect caution and the weather.
Whatever you choose, bear in mind that the Provençal summer sets its own timetable: you enjoy the water in the morning or late afternoon, and avoid the busiest sites at peak hours. Swimming fits naturally into a whole palette of summer activities that we set out in our ideas for outdoor activities in the Luberon, from early-morning hikes to afternoon swims.
And what if the finest swim of all was waiting in the garden?
All these watery escapes have enormous charm, but they also have their downside: the drive, the parking, the crowds of fine-weather days. That's why our guests so love returning, at the end of an outing, to the private heated pool at Le Clos de Manon. After a morning exploring the Provençal Colorado, which you'll find detailed in our guide to visiting the Colorado Provençal in Rustrel, nothing beats a dip at home, with no timetable and no crowds.
That's the luxury of a stay in Gordes: having the Luberon and its waters within easy reach of the car, and a pool all to yourself to round off the day. If the urge for a Provençal summer at the pace of water and lavender is taking hold, check our availability and book your stay: the pool will be warm, and the Luberon's most beautiful swimming spots will be waiting just for you.