There are few pleasures in the Luberon as simple as climbing onto a bike at first light and gliding between the vineyards, the scent of thyme on the breeze and the bell tower of a hilltop village drawing closer. From Le Clos de Manon, a ten-minute walk from Gordes, our guests soon discover that cycling is one of the loveliest ways to take the pulse of the region: slow enough to see everything, free enough to stop wherever the mood takes you. Here is our guide to riding here, from the family-friendly greenway to more ambitious loops, with our host's tips for choosing the right route and the right bike.

The Calavon greenway, the backbone

If you were to remember just one route, this would be it. The Calavon greenway is a path almost entirely separated from traffic, laid out along the former Cavaillon–Apt railway line, which follows the course of the Calavon (or Coulon) through the heart of the valley. The route is flat and even, shaded in places by plane trees and oaks: it is the ideal ride for families, beginners or anyone who wants to pedal without worrying about cars.

The most continuous and most enjoyable section today runs from the outskirts of Coustellet to Apt, passing close to Goult, Lumières and Saint-Martin-de-Castillon. Along the way you cross stone bridges and pass cherry orchards and lavender fields, and you can leave the path at any moment to climb up to a village. From Le Clos de Manon, allow roughly fifteen minutes by car to reach the nearest access points, over towards Coustellet and the Gordes plain.

EuroVelo 8: cycling on a European scale

What many people don't realise is that the Calavon greenway is part of a continental route: EuroVelo 8, the "Mediterranean Route", which links Cádiz in Spain to Athens in Greece along the shores of the Med. In the Vaucluse, its course follows the Calavon valley before heading towards the Verdon and the Alpes-Maritimes. You don't need to aim for Greece to enjoy it: just ride one day along a single stretch to get a taste of that long-haul-journey feeling, complete with kilometre markers and blue waymarking. It is a fine way to link the Luberon to the Durance for anyone who enjoys slightly sportier routes.

The Luberon loop by bike: the grand circuit

For more experienced cyclists, there is a local holy grail: "Le Luberon à vélo", a signposted loop of around 236 kilometres that circles the entire massif, straddling the Vaucluse and the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. Designed to be ridden over several days as a tour, it alternates quiet back roads with stretches of greenway and serves a large share of the region's iconic villages.

You can approach it in countless ways: a weekend on the southern half, around Lourmarin and its combe; a few days for the full loop, with stops at Apt, Cucuron or Manosque. The route is anything but flat — this is the Luberon, after all — but it stays accessible as long as you pace yourself and set off early in summer. For those who like to venture beyond cycling, the region also lends itself to a thousand other adventures, which we have gathered in our ideas for outdoor activities in the Luberon.

Which bike, which level?

The terrain dictates your choice of mount. In the Monts de Vaucluse as in the Luberon, the climbs are frequent and sometimes steep: the electric-assist bike (e-bike) has changed everything. It brings within reach villages once thought reserved for climbers, from Gordes to Bonnieux by way of Roussillon. Several hire companies in the Calavon valley and around Gordes offer hybrids, road bikes and e-bikes by the day or by the week, often with delivery available. We are always happy to point our guests towards the outfits we know and trust.

For strong legs: passes and great climbs

The Luberon has its legendary pass, the Combe de Lourmarin, the only gap that crosses the massif from north to south, a long, steady climb dear to cyclists. And on the horizon stands the giant: Mont Ventoux, one of the most famous summits in world cycling, whose slopes via Bédoin, Malaucène or Sault are about an hour's drive from the villa. Climbing the "Giant of Provence" is a rite of passage: aim for spring or autumn, set off at daybreak and respect the mountain, for the summit remains exposed and the wind can be fearsome.

When to cycle in the Luberon?

Cycling is best savoured in the gentler seasons. Spring, from April to June, and autumn, in September and October, are ideal: mild temperatures, magnificent light, and orchards and lavender depending on the calendar. Summer is still possible but calls for caution: you ride early in the morning, carry plenty of water and forget the climbs during the hottest hours. In any season, keep an eye on the mistral, the northerly wind that can turn a gentle ride into a sustained effort: better to have it at your back on the way home than in your face. On scorching days, many of our guests trade the handlebars for a paddle on a canoe-kayak descent of the Sorgue, or treat themselves to a fresh perspective with a hot-air balloon flight over the Luberon at daybreak.

Le Clos de Manon, your two-wheeled base camp

Cycling in the Luberon means setting off again and again from a single anchor point. Le Clos de Manon, a ten-minute walk from Gordes, sits between the Monts de Vaucluse and the Calavon plain: the greenway is just minutes away, the hilltop villages are within wheel's reach, and Ventoux is an hour off for the ambitious. On your return, when your legs demand their due, the private heated pool and the shade of the garrigue do the rest. We are always glad to help our guests arrange hire and itineraries: check our availability and plan your week of cycling between vineyards and villages.