On the north-facing slope of the Petit Luberon, Bonnieux rises in tiers of golden stone, clinging to its hillside opposite Lacoste and Mont Ventoux. It is one of the villages we point our guests towards first: less crowded than Gordes in high summer, more secret, and with a beauty you earn calf by calf. It is about a 25-minute drive from Le Clos de Manon, along the D900 and then the small road that climbs up to the village. Here is what to know before you set off.
Climbing to the old church: the famous 86 steps
The heart of Bonnieux is vertical. To reach the upper church, the former parish church, you climb a long staircase that winds between the houses: those are the celebrated 86 steps, to be taken slowly, pausing to catch your breath and watch the village unfold beneath your feet.
At the top, the 12th–15th-century church is ringed by a cluster of century-old cedars planted in the 19th century. The terrace offers one of the finest panoramas in the Luberon: the Calavon valley, the orchards, and in the distance the pale outline of the Ventoux. We suggest going up in late afternoon, when the light gilds the stone and the market crowds have melted away.
- Good shoes: the steps are uneven and worn smooth by the centuries, so leave the slippery soles behind.
- Water in summer: the climb is exposed to the sun, especially around midday.
- The detour down below: the new church, built in the 19th century at the foot of the village, holds four painted panels from the 15th century, relics of an early German school.
The cedar forest, the finest walk along the ridge
This is our favourite spot around Bonnieux, and a precious pocket of cool air once the heat settles over the plain. A few minutes' drive above the village, along the ridge of the Petit Luberon, lies the cedar forest: an Atlas cedar grove sown from a handful of seeds starting in 1862, now a majestic forest more than a century old.
A waymarked botanical trail sets off from the car park and forms an easy loop of about an hour, shaded by the tall trees and dotted with panels recounting the flora and geology of the massif. The ground is carpeted with needles, the air smells of resin, and lovely clearings open onto the Aigues valley to the south. It is flat and family-friendly, perfect for a late morning or a picnic.
- Early in the morning in summer: the car park fills up quickly in July and August, and on days of high fire risk access to the massif can be restricted. Check the day before.
- A light layer: under the cedars it is often several degrees cooler than down below.
- Keen walkers can carry on along the ridge paths towards the summit of the Petit Luberon, with 360° views.
Wandering the village and its Bakery Museum
Between the climb to the church and the forest, take time to lose yourself in the lanes. Bonnieux has kept its medieval ramparts, its vaulted passageways, its faded-shutter façades and its little squares shaded by plane trees. The Grand-Rue gathers a few good addresses: fine grocers, winemakers' cellars and café terraces where you can settle in for an aperitif.
One curiosity not to miss is the Bakery Museum, set in an old village house. Over several floors, it traces the history of bread and the baker's craft in Provence: kneading troughs, bread ovens, antique tools, posters and engravings. The visit is short but charming, ideal for a cultural pause when the sun is at its fiercest.
The Bonnieux market is held on Friday mornings, on the main square: seasonal fruit and vegetables, goat's cheeses, honey, soaps and local produce. A lovely chance to fill your basket before heading back to cook at the villa.
The Pont Julien, a Roman relic a stone's throw away
On the way back down from Bonnieux towards the plain, make a small detour to the Pont Julien, only a few kilometres away. This Roman bridge spanning the Calavon dates from around 3 BC: it carried the Via Domitia, the great road that linked Italy to Spain. Three beautifully preserved stone arches, long crossed by car before being reserved, since 2005, for pedestrians and cyclists. It is a quick, free stop, perfect at sunset for a few photographs.
Bonnieux on a perched-village itinerary
Bonnieux is rarely best enjoyed on its own. Its position, south of the Combe de Lourmarin, makes it an ideal gateway to the neighbouring villages. To plan your days, we recommend our guests read our guide to the most beautiful perched villages of the Luberon, which sets Bonnieux within the wider massif.
From there, several combinations stand out depending on what you fancy. To the north, about twenty minutes away, the ghost village of Oppède-le-Vieux, a reawakening ghost village offers an atmosphere out of time, while Goult and the Jerusalem windmill, the Luberon's secret remains one of the most peaceful in the area. To the south, crossing the Combe de Lourmarin, you reach Lourmarin, the village of Albert Camus for a full day rich in discoveries.
Making Bonnieux a stop on your stay
From Le Clos de Manon, our Provençal villa with a private heated pool a ten-minute walk from Gordes, Bonnieux is one of those escapes you can improvise in half a day: climb to the church in the cool of the morning, lunch on a picnic under the cedars, then head back down via the Pont Julien. It is exactly the kind of day a five- to seven-night stay in the heart of the Luberon makes possible, with time to roam without rushing. If the idea appeals, you can check our availability and book your stay at the villa right now.